Demolitions, Masais, and Marisa Tomei
2012 has been the year of routine for me so far. I’ve done a good job – reading a lot of fiction - A Happy Marriage, Things Fall Apart, and Cutting For Stone recently - on my commutes through the Nairobi traffic, doing yoga twice a week, running through the nearby arboretum, and even filing my receipts weekly. As always though, I’m struck by the things that break routine and how they are often so defining.
I took a class at MIT called Managing in Adversity. CEOs from companies came to speak to us about a disastrous situation they faced, then the class debated the best course of action, and then the CEOs told us what happened – almost matter-of-factly. About a month ago, we faced one of those situations. It was Saturday at 9am, and Ani and Lindsay’s plane to South Africa had just taken off. Ruth, our field manager, called to say, “There is a demolition going on in Kwa Njenga and you need to call Bonny [one of our sales reps].” Demolition is a scary word these days for me. Demolishing our toilets demolishes small businesses that people have invested in. It hangs over the people in the communities where we work, but they accept it as a part of life in the slums, where land tenure is unclear and where corruption is commonplace.
I called Bonny, a baby-faced 22-year old who got his job at Sanergy simply because he loved what we were doing so much that he shadowed people on our team until we hired him. He is, by far, the most popular person on our team. Whenever I am out in the field with him, people – tough dudes, old men, pretty girls, you name it - shout greetings. He has me talk to his mom on the phone to say hi, even though she barely speaks English and I assuredly don’t speak Swahili.
Bonny answered the phone, “David – hello. How are you?” In Kenya, even for the briefest of phone calls, people ask how you are doing and expect an answer. “There is a demolition with bulldozers in Kwa Njenga. I am there right now helping people move.
People are also rioting because there was no warning.” I asked if he was safe and to take photos so we could understand better the situation and let others – our team, our toilet owners, our friends – know. I felt a pang of relief that Bonny was safe and definitely had moved into a mindset of “what does this mean for our business?”
“David, I might not come to work on Monday because I have to move – they will probably demolish my house.” My heart sunk as I contemplated the real consequence of this demolition and how quickly I had overlooked what being safe really meant. Yes, not hurt, but now, everything was up in the air. Bonny’s tone was matter-of-fact. I got the feeling that this had happened before to him. I let him know that we could help him however he needed.
As it turns out, the extent of the demolition was not that bad. The community stood up for itself citing an out-of-date demolition license (2 years, in fact) and, tragically, because a policeman killed a community member, the government faced a PR disaster. Things have calmed down and, fortunately, Bonny is settled too. For Sanergy, we did not have any toilets in that area, so our business was fine. But still, I carry this experience with me as demonstrable of how things that we talk about in the abstract – land tenure, contract validity – are so important in day-to-day life. And also how managing in adversity is really not a classroom endeavor!
But it hasn’t been that dramatic all the time.
A couple of weeks ago, I went camping for the first time with a few of my guy friends on Mt. Suswa, about two hours outside of Nairobi. We hiked along a Jurassic Park-like crater and went caving into pitch blackness with thousands of bats flying overhead. We checked out another cave – featured on Planet Earth - known as the Baboon Parliament (because baboons sleep there en masse on rocks to avoid prey) with a Masai guide who, much to our delight, kept calling baboons “Bamboos”. We channeled our inner-macho-ness to put together a solid fire made from wood that we chopped ourselves. We also were armed with cheap whiskey called Black Stallion, which comes in at $5 a liter. It’s pretty awful, and in one of those moments that idle camping inspires, we decided to try our hand at fanning the flames through fire-breathing whiskey stunts. Of course, the fire roared with appreciation. But James, our Masai guide who had said nothing all evening, got an even greater kick out of our lunacy, and went way out of his way to outdo the wazungu [foreigners]. Rather than play with whiskey, he whipped out a machete and chopped down an entire tree, which he then heaved into the fire. He watched it burn with an amazing satisfaction long into the night. I have no idea what on Earth what he was thinking, but he enjoyed the campfire as much as we had.
And finally…
About a month ago, Ani went to the bathroom in a Johannesburg restaurant. We sometimes use other toilets than the Sanergy ones. We were there as part of an Echoing Green conference for social entrepreneurs working throughout Africa and we had a private room for the dinner. As he walked, he saw a brown ponytailed woman head into the men’s room. He thought it was Rebecca Magee, a brown ponytailed friend in our cabal. So he shouted, “Quit using the men’s room, Magee!” And he heard back a sharp “What’s the big deal?” which is not unlike Magee to say. So he shrugged his shoulders, and waited, and looked around, and saw that Magee was happily eating at our table. Lo and behold, out walked…Marisa Tomei!
This has been my moment of zen for the past month.
